Champagne and Sparkling Wine

Table of Contents
  1. From Still to Sparkling Wine in Champagne
  2. Viticulture and Climate in Champagne
  3. The Regions of Champagne
  4. The CIVC and Échelle de Crus
  5. Types of Champagne Producers
  6. The Méthode Champenoise
  7. Styles of Champagne
  8. Still wines of Champagne
  9. Other Traditional Method Sparkling Wines
  10. Other Sparkling Winemaking Methods
  11. Review Quizzes

From Still to Sparkling Wine in Champagne

The techniques of sparkling winemaking did not originate with the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon, nor was the first purposely sparkling wine produced in the region of Champagne. Regardless, through centuries of refinement Champagne has become the world’s leading sparkling wine and the vinous embodiment of luxury and celebration.

The méthode Champenoise, a complicated process involving secondary fermentation in the bottle, is at the heart of Champagne’s character and has been adopted by sparkling winemakers worldwide. The term, like “Champagne” itself, is protected by the EU, and may only be applied to sparkling wines produced according to the prescribed method within the Champagne AOP. Wines made in the fashion of Champagne but produced elsewhere may be labeled as traditional method (méthode traditionnelle) or classic method (méthode classique). Some producers, particularly in the US, continue to label their sparkling wines as Champagne, but such wines are banned from the EU.

Dom Pérignon’s lasting contributions to modern Champagne lie in the techniques of assemblage (blending) and viticulture, despite the persistent myth that anoints him as the inventor of sparkling winemaking. As cellar master at the Abbey of Hautvillers from 1668 until his death in 1715, Pérignon struggled with the problem of natural refermentation. The irrepressibly cold winters of the region created a danger: as the weather cooled off in the autumn and the yeasts became dormant, fermentation would sometimes prematurely stop, and the wines
Comments
  • Where might I find a list of declared vintages? I cross-referenced many sites and they all seem to contradict themselves. If I could be pointed in the right direction of a consistent, correct list, I would be very appreciative.

  • It is 102 liters of juice/must extracted from 160 kg of grapes.

  • So in the "Viticulture and Climate in Champagne" section, it says "CIVC set a limit of 102 liters of must for every 160 kg of grapes, or 2,550 liters per 4,000 kg" but later in "The Méthode Champenoise" section it sates "As previously mentioned, extraction is limited to 102 liters from 160 kg of must, or 2,550 liters from 4,000 kg." So is it 102 liters of juice from 160 kg of must or 102 liters of must from 160 kg of grapes?

  • Still getting to the bottom of the Contrôle des Structures.  Thanks to Tom Stevenson for weighing in on the subject:

    "I think I wrote about the Contrôle des Structures in 2003 (and later mentioned in in Wine Report 2005) and the restriction has since risen from 15 to 18 hectares. This law is very complicated and has many variables that can affect the 18 hectares (please see attached, it’s from Languedoc-Roussillon, but it’s the same law), but it essentially applies to newly acquired (purchased, leased or rented) vineyards and is not restricted to Champagne. However, although it applicable all over France, its restrictions are enforced to different degrees in different regions and none more so than in Champagne (i.e., the same restrictions apply everywhere, but some regions are more strict in applying them than others, and Champagne is amongst the strictest in this respect).

    Krug is perhaps not the best house to speak to on this subject, as the Contrôle des Structures was not introduced until 1962 and its effect was not immediate. At that time Krug had 5-6 hectares in Villedommange and now has only 19 hectares, so even though it has sold off some of the vineyards it acquired, it has never come close to the restriction in hectares (although they have to be included in LVMH’s application, now it has itself been taken over – see CDS Application attached). Any house farming an existing vineyard historically when the law was introduced will be exempt from these regulations, either because the law did not exist, or they were granted exceptions (although they may have to apply for permission on an annual basis for bureaucratic reason). The heart of all the largest estates were put together in the 19th century (e.g. Moët, Veuve Clicquot, Pommery etc) or acquired in the Great Depression of the 1930s (e.g., Lanson). Takeovers like that of Mercier by Moët happened in the early-1960's when corporate acquisitions were not encompassed by Contrôle des Structures. This still remains

  • So, according to the good folks at Krug, despite the Contrôle des Structures (and Tom Stevenson's reports on it) there is no limit to the amount of land a house may own in Champagne.  Thanks to Shayn Bjornholm for pursuing this!