RE: Syrah: The reports of my demise are not greatly exaggerated

user2496 — Fri, 19 Jun 2009 00:01:35 GMT

Right on, Andy. As Greg Harrington points out on the previous page, spoofilated syrah just hits a bunch of wrong notes.

RE: Syrah: The reports of my demise are not greatly exaggerated

Anonymous — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 01:02:45 GMT

Well you have heard my diatribes on this topic many a time, JMack, but for the sufferings of others, here are a few of them for pondering.

1. I believe - with complete bias but still honestly - that cool climate syrah in CA can achieve greatness to perhaps even exceed many great northern Rhone wines as we can achieve that balance between savory and fruit characteristics where the Rhone and hot climate syrah often swing too far out of balance in either direction. BUT it must be a cool climate vineyard and i mean cool, not cool-ish cause that is the thing to say. At our vineyard, one of the coolest growing syrah in CA, we get fewer degree days than the Rhone (heck fewer than Geisenheim and Champagne in 05) but have longer hang times and can sometimes get an extra 0.5-1.0 degree BRIX since we pick in late October and November since rains do not come and stay until November-ish. So we pick around 22 brix and get the meaty, peppery, leather elements while also having the floral and fruit notes. We avoid the gobs of fruit and alcohol that mar most new world efforts. That is the style of syrah that speaks to the soul and thanks to many on this site, we are able to sell what we make.

2. Viognier in Syrah. No need to blend in Viognier to create floral lift in CA Syrah, we get enough sunlight. Many Cote Rotie wines need it or the wines are too low in potential alcohol and are light on the palate. Viognier ripens 2-3 weeks earlier than syrah and in CR is inter-planted to they get free sugar to help fermentation, add weight and also add needed floral top notes to balance the low BRIX pepper and tar notes. I can almost always tell when someone blends in Viognier in a new world syrah. Sticks out like a sore thumb. You find that sommeliers? Is that a problem for you?

3. Any meat served rare or medium rare or, heck, even medium if folks are silly enough to order medium, should be served with cool climate syrah. Cool climate syrah has sanguine aromas of blood and iron with pepper that pair perfectly with rib eye and lamb. Cab? Not even my second choice for pairing those meats. Of course, many customers feel comfortable ordering their cab as they are at a steak house and need massive cabs to go with massive expense accounts and massive guts. But that is the job - and frankly the joy - of a caring sommelier; to steer them to what wine will give them the best experience with their food. For some, cool climate syrah will not maximize their pleasure. The best experience is getting a wine that they feel safe ordering or that impresses the guests or sates other unrequited carnal desires. Y'all are experts and can suss that out but I feel often times we may be too lazy to put our necks out and recommend a cool climate syrah that may actually enlighten and create a more memorable dining experience. If we go with syrah in a steak house, we recommend the dreaded fruit bomb Shiraz as it appeals to the same desires as a cab. Or maybe not, I am not on the floor every night so perhaps i should strike the "we."

4. Agreed on Rod and Jordan's observations on why syrah suffers due to consumer confusion due to the wide range of styles. People still say chardonnay can grow in all climates. I heard it the other day from a very well respected and experienced wine maker. Um, no, chardonnay does not make interesting wine in a hot climate unless spoofilated and then it is always a bit clunky or it makes soft, silky. fruity, alcoholic chardonnay that certina critics gush over. Winemakers like chardonnay because it is easily manipulated to make something to impress critics, but engaging, honest, soulful and therefore memorable chardonnay? Nah. Same goes for syrah.

5. Lastly, this syrah shake out is a painful but necessary development. Just as other varieties can not grow all over the world in any condition and produce excellent wine neither can syrah. In newer wine regions, this is how we find out what areas/vineyards truly make superlative wines. In the case of areas who are having trouble selling their syrah, keep exploring for the grape that makes that piece of terroir superior. Grenache likes heat. Tempranillo. Dare i say, sangiovese. Okay, i dare not, i remember selling the first few vintages of the God's Top wine in the mid nineties and it was not fun to drink or sell. But as the vines have aged those sangioveses are getting a little better?

RE: Syrah: The reports of my demise are not greatly exaggerated

Anonymous — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 16:19:00 GMT

Thanks for the comments. I sometimes wonder about the profile. While we love it, it seems like a real peppery, cool climate Syrah might be strange and even off-putting for some people. I think that really getting it right is tough--that balance of savory and fruit. But certainly, the preponderance of fruit-bomb Shiraz is not going to help people learn to comprehend a more classically Northern Rhone style.

RE: Syrah: The reports of my demise are not greatly exaggerated

Anonymous — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 05:52:04 GMT

Well said. Very well said. Having spent time in both "buyer" and "seller" realms, this information is spot on. I sold against a portfolio that had all the great Syrah names of the US. At the largest retailer in the Kansas City area, there were probably 8 - 10 domestic Syrahs on the shelf. Across the isle, 30 to 40 Australian Shiraz.

I love Syrah. I think, at the table, it's a flavor profile that most people are looking for. Alas, they still just buy California Cab.